Tuesday, February 04, 2014

 

Sacred Sites

Here are two really special places on the island of Oahu in Hawaii. Our guide, Roland, took us to both. The first one doesn't look like much to the casual traveller. It is just a few rocks and a cleared track in the middle of a cane field. It is, however, one of the most significant cultural sites on Oahu, Kukaniloko, the place where royal births took place. The actual birthing stones are at the far end of the avenue in a small grove of palms, but we were short of time and didn't walk to them. It was the cultural centre of Oahu and is almost at the geographical centre as well. The other three photos are of the ruins of Pu'u o Mahuka Heiau. Heiau is Hawaiian for Temple, and this was the largest on Oahu. Pu'u o Mahuka means "Hill of Escape" and tradition says that this is where Pele, the volcano godess, left Oahu for Molokai. The heiau is on a ridge overlooking Waimea Bay and from it you can see most of the northern coastline of Oahu. It dates back to the 17th century, a very turbulent time in Hawaii, and it was used as a sacrificial temple to bring success in war. The Oldies were fascinated to see that the walls of the temple are aligned with the cardinal compass points, so it was probably used as an astronomical observatory and calender as well. Tradition says that when observers on Kaena Point, west of Waimea, see the Pleiades star cluster appearing to rise from the heiau at sunset it marks the beginning of the joyful season of Makahiki. There were no doubt other significant astronomical alignments, but they have been forgotten. Tradition dies hard as is shown by the many offerings of leis and taro parcels that locals still leave at the ruins of the heiau.

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