Bart Bear's Blog

The highlight of our day at Bora Bora was a visit to Bloody Mary's bar and restaurant (I have finally learned how to spell that). This is built of jungle timber, bamboo and palm thatch to look like the old Polynesian buildings described in so many stories about the South Pacific. In fact, it is named after the character in Michener's "Tales of the South Pacific" and the movie "South Pacific" based on the book. The bar was built in 1979 by a guy called Baron George and has become one of the "must visit" places on Bora Bora. It has been visited by lots of international politicians, astronauts, celebrities and bands and they are listed on panels on either side of the entry; they should add my name as well now. Inside it is like something from a movie about the old days in the Pacific. The floor is sand, the seats are cut from logs and windows are just open areas that can be closed by thatch flaps. I found some strange totem poles in the courtyard, you can tell the size by comparing with the small bear (me) at the base of this one. I also found a rather disturbing element. In the picnic area just across the road there are lots of large crab holes. I tried to lure one out by tossing gravel down the hole and I had a big rock to bash it with if it came out, but it didn't so Mum didn't have crab cakes that night. Something new to me is the number of pairs of wheels on the sides of frames in the edge of the lagoon. These are winding wheels for lifts that raise fishing boats clear of the water so that marine bugs and borers can't attach themselves to the hull. There is always something interesting to see on the Pacific islands.

Labels: crabs, cruising, South Pacific, Tahiti

At the moment a vast area of Australia is burning. So far Canberra has escaped the fires, but we have had really bad smoke in the air for over a month; for the past week we have had the most dangerous air quality in the world. Hard to recall that just a couple of months ago we were on Moorea with air as clear and clean as it ever gets. We spent a day on one of the tours offered by the ship. It circumnavigated the island and stopped at the best scenic places. Here are  3 stops. The first row is at Belvedere Lookout, 900 m up on Mt Tohivea, the tallest of Moorea's peaks (it is 1207 m high). The road up to the lookout is one of the scariest I have ever been on, maybe because I was in a big bus instead of a small car. The road is narrow and has several hairpin bends which I would never have believed the bus could navigate. The view from the top is magnificent, looking out over the forest and the 2 large bays, Oponohu on the left and Cook's on the right. Our ship is that tiny white speck at the right side entrance to Oponohu Bay. There are a series of 6 ruined marae (temples) that the road passes close to. The bus stops at Titiroa marae, about half-way up the road. The remains are a large stone platform surrounded by a path and stone wall. I didn't have time to walk right around it, but was told that there were upright "god stones" at the other end. There are lots of wild chickens roaming the area. Later on the bus stopped at Tiki Village where there is a small model marae; I acted as gate guide while the tour group was there. Another photo stop was at Toatea lookout, above the Sofitel Ora Moorea Beach Resort. You get a good view of the coastline and lagoon from here, as well as the over-water bungalows. Tahiti can be seen on the horizon. A long day, but a good one to remember.

Labels: cruising, South Pacific, Tahiti

The most picturesque island we visited on the way back from Hawaii is Moorea. The name means Island of Yellow Lizards. I have visited another island with a similar name, Lizard Island on the Great Barrier Reef. Moorea is much bigger and higher than the Australian one. Our ship anchored in Opunohu Bay, the closer of the two large bays to the small harbour at Papetoai. The other large bay is named after my hero, Captain James Cook. The most obvious features you see as the ship arrives are the high, jagged mountain peaks. The island is an extinct volcano and these peaks are the eroded remnants of the lava plugs of the original craters. The harbour is tiny and far too small and shallow for a cruise ship, so the ship's tenders run a shuttle service from ship to shore. There were great views of the ship from the beach where local kids were swimming and fishing. We were greeted by a group of local dancers, all of whom were very glad to welcome this small bear to their island. I was invited to join the next dance, but had to decline because there were crab holes in the dance area and I hate those critters.

Labels: Captain Cook, crabs, cruising, South Pacific, Tahiti

We cruised home from Hawaii on our favourite ship "Radiance of the Seas". The ship stopped at Tahiti, Moorea, Bora Bora, Wellington and Picton. The Oldies worked on the cruise. Dad gave talks on astronomy every day at sea and Mum also answered questions from the passengers and was ready to show them the sky at night, but the sky was cloudy most of the time. Their "boss" was the Cruise Program Administrator, Michael. He is the best one they have ever had and he is now one of my Official Uncles; Hi Unka Michael, I hope you are still having fun. We did a working cruise along this route 7 years ago, but most of the passengers (including Mum) got pretty sick and we missed seeing most of the shore stops. This time we saw everything we could. First picture is me saying "A hui hou" (until we meet again) to Honolulu. The next 2 are the ship at Moorea and Bora Bora. And if you ever wonder how the Pacific Ocean got its name, the last picture tells it all. This is how calm the sea was until we got to higher southern latitudes near New Zealand. The Tasman Sea between NZ and Australia was, as usual, the roughest part of the cruise. I watched for whales and other ships all during our 12 days at sea and didn't see any of either. I did see some absolutely beautiful ships in and near the islands we visited. Images of them and the islands coming soon.

Labels: astronomy, cruising, Hawaii, New Zealand, Tahiti

Nothing of interest happened this past week, so here's a couple of photos from our Hawaii - Sydney cruise in 2013. The island is Moorea, near Thaiti. You can see other photos of it if you search the blog. I like the ruggedness of Moorea. It is mostly mountains with just a small flat strip around the coast. The peaks were mostly covered in cloud the day we were there. The ship has to moor in deep water, quite a way from the wharf, and we went ashore in the ship's lifeboats. Moorea is very beautiful (if you are into islands, like I am) and a place you should see if you get the chance. I am getting cruise fever again, as the Oldies and selected small critters are guest lecturers on "Radiance of the Seas" in a few weeks time.

Labels: boats, cruising, South Pacific, Tahiti

OK, before the purists among you jump and clammer loudly that these are SHIPS, not boats, I admit that is the proper term, but "ships" doesn't alliterate with "Bart's". I absolutely love cruising and these are the ships that I have cruised on so far. "Dro Ki Cakau" was a happy ship. I did three cruises around various parts of Fiji on her. The photo shows her moored among the northern Yasawa islands. She was damaged beyond repair during a cyclone in 2010, and replaced by "Reef Endeavour". I cruised some of the Great Barrier Reef on "Reef Endeavour" in 2005, while she was based in Cairns. The picture shows her at Cooktown. What can I say about "Queen Mary 2"? She is the ultimate cruise liner, a superb mix of classic Cunard luxury and modern technology. I only had 5 days on her in 2011 and hope that we can afford a longer trip sometime in the future. The photo shows her arriving in Fremantle harbour. "Voyager of the Seas" is my favourite ship, so far. Dad was lecturer on her on a New Zealand trip in 2012. Although not as "posh" as the QM2, "Voyager" is a well-run and happy ship with lots of activities, live music of various types, and interesting places to eat. The good news is that we are taking Mum on another "Voyager" cruise for her birthday and Christmas this year. "Celebrity Millenium" was a bit of a let-down because the ship was kept too cold and lots of the passengers got really sick. The ship was OK, but didn't have the excitement of the others. However, the cruise from Hawaii to Sydney via French Polynesia took us to many places the Oldies wanted to see. There is a blank space in the mosaic for my next ship. This will be "Radiance of the Seas", which Dad will be lecturing on in April during a cruise to New Caledonia. I am looking forward to returning to Noumea and investigating a new ship. Love cruising.
You can see many images from these cruises on my blog, just search the ship name in the search window at top left of the page.

Labels: boats, Cairns, Captain Cook, cruising, Fiji, New Zealand, Noumea, Tahiti

Papeete has a great mix of architectural styles. Most of the new buildings are rather uninteresting concrete and glass, but the older buildings are fascinating. Just across from the cruise terminal is what was obviously once a splendid hotel. Today it is closed up, the main door has been covered by a roller shutter and the only sign of its former glory is the staircase leading up to it. Even the fire escapes have class; no ugly ladders and landings, but recessed spiral staircases. It must have been an impressive hotel when it was in its prime.  I haven't been able to find out what it was called, Google is quiet on the subject. If anybody knows, please let me know too. Lots of the older buildings are very colourful. The red and yellow one in the photo is part of the market district. Papeete markets are well worth wandering around. All sorts of things on sale, but I really do wonder how all those millions of mangoes ever get sold. And of course the modern graffiti kids are active as well. Mind you, I think this wall in downtown Papeete is really a work of art and maybe will be kept and appreciated. The problem I had was that time was so short, there is lots more to see next time.

Labels: buildings, cruising, South Pacific, Tahiti

I guess that I can't complain about no variety in my life. Last November I was in the middle of the biggest ocean on Earth and last week I was in the centre of Australia. So, having gazillions of photos to show you, here's a couple of Papeete, capital of Tahiti. The top one was taken from the top deck of "Celebrity Millenium" at the wharf. It shows some of the town centre and private yachts. If you look closely you can see the red spire of Notre Dame Cathedral, and a houseboat that looks like a voyaging canoe. The mountain in the background is Orohena, 2,240m high. For most of the day we were there it had orographic cloud streaming from the summit. As I mentioned before, the traffic at any time of day is horrendous. It took us 10 minutes to cross this road between the port and the town, pedestrians evidently come cheap there. However, we had a great time exploring Papeete and it's mix of ancient and modern architecture.

Labels: boats, cruising, South Pacific, Tahiti

Tahiti is a place that the Oldies have wanted to see for as long as I've been with them. Dad specially wanted to see it because of the history and the romantic novels that are attached to the place. Well, it came as a bit of a shock to them. The island is spectacular with jagged, jungle covered mountains. The areas away from the towns are probably OK too, but we only had time to check Papeete and Venus Point. Apart from some of the parks, Papeete is a run-down, scruffy sort of place. A bit like the descriptions of backwater villages in the stories about the South Seas. Some of the old buildings are great examples of colonial architecture, so it is an interesting place to roam around. The traffic is horrendous, about as bad as Cairo according to the Oldies. However, sailing into the harbour early in the morning is beautiful. The top picture shows part of the outer suburbs of Papeete and one of the valleys where most Tahitians lived before Europeans arrived. The bottom photo shows some of the reefs and bays, looking toward Papeete from a lookout point near Venus Point. Actually, I would like more time in Tahiti so that I could see some of the areas away from "civilization".

Labels: boats, cruising, Tahiti

Cruise ships can't get right into a dock on Moorea, so they anchor in one of the deep bays and use the ship's lifeboats to take passengers ashore. We anchored in Opunohu Bay and were ferried ashore to the town of Papeto'ai. You can see one of the lifeboats in the top photo. They are not very big, but can hold around 100 passengers. I hope that I never have to be crammed into one of these in rough seas after our ship sinks. Anyhow, Moorea is a beautiful island and I would like to see more of it. Some travel authors consider it to be the most beautiful in the world; I need to see more islands before I decide. It is surrounded by a fringing reef and wherever there is a lagoon between the reef and shore you will find boats anchored and usually a resort as well. I would love to spend some time in one of the over-water bungalows in the bottom picture. The towns are fairly small, as you can see in the background of the bottom photo (just click on the picture for a bigger one). Bart's tip for travellers: When a cruise ship brings passengers ashore here, there are hordes of local tour operators waiting and you can get some real bargains, much cheaper than the ship price for the identical tour.

Labels: boats, cruising, South Pacific, Tahiti

Just 17 Km northwest of Tahiti is the island of Moorea. You can easily see it from Papeete on a clear day. "Moorea" means "yellow lizard" in Tahitian. I looked at it from all angles as our ship "Celebrity Millennium" arrived and departed from the island, but couldn't see any lizard shape. In fact, the most obvious thing about Moorea is its mountains. They are high and jagged, really spectacular when you can see them clear of cloud. Most of the people on Moorea live right on the coast or along the valleys. Our ship anchored in Opunohu Bay on a cloudy day. My little friend Milkshake was very excited to be there. She figured that any place with "Moo" in its name had to be a special place for cows. Here are photos of me showing her the sights from the top deck. I think she was disappointed that there were no cows.

Labels: boats, cruising, South Pacific, Tahiti

As well as the memorial to Captain Cook, there are other memorials at Venus Point. The photo on the left is of the Bounty Stone,remembering the crew of HMS Bounty and their Tahitian wives who left Tahiti after the mutiny in search of a new home safe from discovery. They left Tahiti in 1789 and eventually settled on Pitcairn Island. The faces on the monument are believed to be Pitcairn islanders John Adams and Martha Young. Most of the Pitcairners eventually moved to Norfolk Island and I have met some of their descendents there. How about that? I have been to the spot where they left Tahiti and to the spot where they landed on Norfolk. I've even seen the graves of some that left Pitcairn and died on Norfolk. That's great for a small bear with an interest in history. I have no idea what the anchor in the ring commemorates. If anybody knows I would be glad to hear. I can tell you that it is a fine climbing frame for small bears. The building in the background is a "modernised" version of a Tahitian longhouse. It is in fact a souvenir and craft shop. Mum bought a small model of the lighthouse here. We found that it was full of smelly oil but it was easy to empty and clean out and it is our best souvenir of Venus Point.

The delay between this post and the last one is, unfortunately, not because I have been away somewhere interesting. I have been looking after Mum. She had a large greebly  dug out of her foot last week. It looked like a wart on the side of her foot but we couldn't get rid of it. When the doctor cut it out it looked more like a big transparent slug. Yucky!!! She is almost better now.

Labels: astronomy, boats, Captain Cook, climbing, Norfolk Island, Tahiti

When "Celebrity Millenium" docked in Tahiti, the Oldies and I grabbed a taxi and visited a place that is very important to the history of both science and Australia. The place is Venus Point, the most northern point of Tahiti, 10km east of Papeete. The early European explorers anchored their ships offshore here in Matavai Bay. One of them was my hero, James Cook. He set up a camp, Fort Venus, here in 1769 to observe the Transit of Venus. This was important science. At the time astronomers knew the relative distances between planets but had no measurement to give them the actual distances between planets and the Sun. Cook's measurements helped to give the first measurements of our Solar System, and they were surprisingly accurate when compared to today's numbers. Following the Transit he set sail to find and map New Zealand and the east coast of Australia. Of course both of these were known to the native inhabitants, but Cook "put them on the map". There is a small monument on the spot where Cook made the Transit observations. Nearby is a magnificent lighthouse. It was built in 1868 by Thomas Stevenson, the father of Robert Louis Stevenson. Point Venus is a popular picnic and swimming place for the locals, but the beach is black volcanic sand and the sand flies there are the worst in the known Universe (according to Dad who had his legs severely bitten by them). Despite the sand flies, I am completely thrilled to have visited this historic spot and to have to sat where Cook sat to make those vital observations.

Labels: astronomy, Captain Cook, heroes, lighthouse, Tahiti

The islands of the South Pacific are home to some of the strangest sculptures in the world. They are like a mix of human and monster. Lots of the earliest statues, both stone and wood, were destroyed by missionaries. I like them a lot (the statues that is) and always get photos of any we find. Here are four of the ones that we saw on last year's cruise. The white guy is a new one, made from concrete. I found him at a shop door in Port Denarau, Fiji. He seems to be a mix between the Polynesian Tiki style and the Melanesian style. The red one and the grey two-headed one are in parks near the docks in Papeete, Tahiti. They are carved from local rock and are very old. The red one is the oldest of these four, and is female, The double-header is definitely male. Note the islander asleep in the background. Papeete has lots of people "busy doing nothing" in the public areas and I didn't like the feel of the town much. The fourth statue is made from wood. Actually, there are a pair of these, one mail and one female, guarding the doorway of a shop in the main street of Vaitape, Bora Bora. Most Polynesian sculptures are wooden, but they don't last as long as the stone ones do. Of course, lots of small statues are still being carved for the tourist trade, but I am not allowed to bring any wooden stuff home because of the Australian Customs laws. Maybe that's just as well because I would be competing for space with Mum's Egyptian statues.

Labels: boats, cruising, Fiji, South Pacific, Tahiti